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How to apply binding on high loft batting.

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    How to apply binding on high loft batting.

    My charitable quilting group is now using batting that comes on a huge roll. I guess it's the most economical option they can find. Until now, I've never had to deal with it b/c I just pieced tops and kept the fabric stash folded and organized. Recently, however, the person that trims the quilts after the binding is applied quit (b/c of arthritis) and today I was drafted into the job.

    So here's the problem. The batting is very high loft poly. I'd say it's almost an inch high if it's just lying flat on a table. Our group first sandwiches and pins the quilts, then they are tied. After that they apply the binding to the top. After that, they trim 1/4" from the seam where the binding is attached to the rest of the quilt ("binding seam"). That's where I came in today.

    Let me just say, I had a heck of a time trimming those quilts. The problem is that the binding seam compresses those quilt so much that the backing isn't lying flat. I had to constantly tug at the backing to get it to try and lie flat while I trimmed the edge. Oftentimes, I still ended up with wider pieces of backing which I then had to hand trim with scissors.

    So here's my question. Is there a way to adjust the settings so that the quilt isn't compressed quite so much when the binding is applied, and yet still have a sturdy binding seam? The woman who was stitching the binding on today said she has increased the stitch length a llittle bit, but to me, it still looked really small -- like what you would use for piecing. What would you suggest for any and all settings that could make this batting a little easier to deal with?

    A couple of other points. The binding lady at one one point commented as she was applying the binding to a flannel quilt that her pressure foot was getting "buried" or "lost". Also, I noticed while trimming a couple of quilts that the quilt top looked like it wasn't lying flat -- like it was getting pulled down from where it should have been attached to the binding. Also, I should mention that the ladies do not pin the binding to the quilt before sewing. They just feed in in/on as they go.

    So really, lots of problems with using this batting. Any suggestions you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

    #2
    Re: How to apply binding on high loft batting.

    I don't have that much experience at all and none with such high loft batting but two thoughts came to mind. 1) A walking foot would be an absolute must. You didn't mention using one. 2) Sew binding on before final trim but that would only work if you sew binding down first on the top of the quilt.

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      #3
      Re: How to apply binding on high loft batting.

      I think that a really high loft batting like you are describing would naturally pouf up near any seam. I would first square or trim the quilt, then run a narrow zig zag stitch around the perimeter to corral that pouf. Then I'd sew the binding on the front and finish it to the back either by machine or by hand. The binding would cover the zig zag when its all done. Good luck to you!

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        #4
        Re: How to apply binding on high loft batting.

        If you have a serger available I would use it to tame the 1/4" seam allowance and trim, all at the same time.
        K is for Karen 😊​..................
        Cremation - My last hope for a smokin' hot body.


        Before you speak,
        T - is it TRUE?
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          #5
          Re: How to apply binding on high loft batting.

          I was going to say what Karen suggested. Or a zig-zag stitch.
          🌺 Lorie

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            #6
            Re: How to apply binding on high loft batting.

            First, let me say this: Walking foot
            I make insulated curtains with up to 3/4 loft poly batting, plus an additional layer - usually felt or a cheap blanket that is like thin fleece. It depends on if I want to block light comming through or not. I do not bind these. I typically sew the batting to the WS of the back, and the felt to the WS of the front. Then trim them square. Then I sew them RS together leaving an opening just big enough to turn the whole thing. Hand stitch the opening, and then top stitch at a point past the seam where my Sewing foot will be flat - about 3/4 of an inch up to 1 1/2 inches, depending on how much poof I want at the edge. Then I do my quilting stitches, which would be horizontal if the curtain will roll up, or vertical if it will be pulled to sides to open. If I was making a puffy quilt, I would tie instead. If I did want to bind it, I would skip the 'WS together and turn' seam, and instead do a WS together 1/2" seam, and then us wider binding.

            For thinner quilts, I always stitch around entire edge before squaring up, which sometime removes some of the stitch line, but enough of it stays to help when I then add binding.

            Here's two examples - one for inside frame and one for outside frame. Anyway, for really poofy quilts I would do the same thing except tie it instead of straight line stitching. I would still probably skip the binding and do a top stich edge about 3/4" from edge.

            Used 3/4 poly batting, and white felt to let light come through

            20160807_083250.jpg

            20160807_120843.jpg

            20160807_185123.jpg

            Used 1/2" poly batting and dark blanket to block light

            Bedroom_120807.jpg

            Bedroom_141723.jpg

            Bedroom_141913.jpg

            Bedroom_141937.jpg
            Pieced By Me! :icon_wave:

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