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I recently read a person's account of her first quilting classes, and she said the teacher measured all their seam allowances and if it was not a precise 1/4" they ripped it out and re-did.
I understand the feet on any given machine may be off by 1/8" or so, but as long as you are consistant with ALL your seams, making sure they are the same, does making it 1/4" REALLY matter that much?
I honestly don't know if my foot I normally use is a precise 1/4", I never gave it much thought before.
Good question. I have noticed on my press foots and marking on the plate of the machine...1/4 is not what it shows to be! I literally had to measure from needle to ...... wherever and choose a foot that had that measurement. THe quilt 1/4" foot isn't 1/4" but my all purpose foot has a perfect side to needle of 1/4" so I just have the fabric follow the edge of the pressure foot. I'd say on the other problem...as long as they are very near, why wouldn't they be okay? As long as you are persistant in that measurement. Maybe the teacher is trying to teach them structure or persistance. I have found sometimes in cutting thesquare out, that I have to cut them a slight 1/8" bigger than I want them to be because when I sew the exact measruements together...they are all off and crooked but that scant 1/8" literally saves the day!
Cathryn,
First I have to say that teacher is a bit tooooo much! Can I use the word "anal" safely on this forum? LOL I think a teacher like that would have deterred me from continuing on with quilting.
A 1/4" seam allowance is important, but that comes with practice and familiarity with your machine and experience.
The reason why it is important is that each piece you sew together has to match the length of the next piece and so forth. For example, if I'm sewing two 2.5" squares together then join those to a 4.5" strip, I need to make sure my seam allowance is correct. My 2 original squares once sewn together should measure 4.5". If my seam allowance is greater, the squares will be too small and i would have to stretch them to fit my 4.5" strip. If my seam allowance is smalller, I would have to stretch my 4.5" strip to make it all fit. Mind you fabric does have some play in it so it can be stretched, but if you repeat this with every seam in your quilt, you will run into many problems as each strip or round you sew, the problem worsens exponentially. I've seen this many times, even on my own earlier works.
To test if your foot is 1/4", take a piece of paper and draw 2 lines 1/4" away from each other; use a very sharp pencil to do this. Set your paper under your needle. Bring your needle down on the left line, lower your foot and take a look at where your foot lays in proportion to the line on the right side. If it is off, move your needle to the left or right if it has this function. Also check and see if the 1/4" on your needle plate is in line with the edge of your foot. Dont' depend solely on your presser foot. Use the needle plate mark as well. After 10 yrs of quilting, I just figured this out and it helps me out alot more.
That's a good idea for testing the foot width! I have a lot of flexibility in adjusting my needle left or right, it would be easy to figure it out once then make sure I always set my needle to the same spot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Denis
As far as the lining up goes- I normally don't measure and cut everything out first. For example, if I needed multiple 4.5" strips at a certain width, I would cut LONG strips the width they needed to be and cut them into individual pieces as I went along. So as long as the seam allowance is CONSISTANT, it wouldn't matter if every square ended up a bit more or less, as long as they ALL are the same more or less.
My machine has IDT, it really makes a nice even straight seam, I just don't know if it's EXACTLY 1/4"! Almost ALL of my garment making is done on the serger, I only use my sewing maching for basting and some seams the serger will hack up.( I do use it for other things too-this is just for most garment seams) I make my seam allowances 1/2" on the patterns I make to allow for fitting, then cut them all down for the final pattern.
I guess I need to start pre-measuring more! I HATE the cutting process and get really sick of it, so starting to sew with the basic starting pieces keeps me excited about things. It is SO DIFFERENT for me to have to have things so precise! I have been sewing for 23 years, and quilting definitley needs to be handled differently than making things to wear!
As far as that teacher goes, I am too stubborn to be deterred by that kind of nit-pickiness, I would most likely just ignore it.
What a great idea!! I'm going to check my machines out today.
Thanks.
Ginny B
Holy Cow! I'd never get anything done if I cut my pieces as I sewed along! It just goes to show how different all of our styles are!
I am with Denis. That 1/4" seam is pretty important. It will become more so as you get to more intricate patterns. I'm not sure that the "quilt police" method of learning would work for me either. After having to rip a few of my own seams because things didn't match up, I have made the effort to make them as close to 1/4" and consistent as possible.
Sometimes I have noticed that after switching from a zigzag or another decorative stitch with an adjustable width, I don't always get the needle back to the home position. It is worth a double check every time you sit down to sew that al of your dials are where they should be. This is especially true if you have little ones in the house. Those twisty & turny things are somethimes just too much temptation!
I think I got cutting burn out. I used to make dance costumes and for a routine that had 20+ kids in it the cutting could take an entire week- I had one that took close to 40 hours and that was WITH my husband helping me! Now I dread cutting large scale-it is VERY hard for me to stay interested and focused.Quote:
Originally Posted by toggpine
I am going to have to give myself time to switch 23 years of garment sewing mentality to quilting mentality-I am going to stick with SIMPLE patterns and designs so I don't get discouraged.
My machine automatically sets the needle into the stitches' default setting-makes it a no-brainer! I really love my machine and am looking forward to spending some quality time with it and put the serger away!
I am even BUYING my daughter's senior prom dress!
A 1/4" seam is important, because a little bit off at each seam can add up to a lot. For a more intricate block you could run into serious issues. That said, you are correctthat consistancy is important too. It is one of those things that comes with practice.
As far as that teacher, I think that would discourage many potential quilters. sometimes the best way to teach is to let someone make a mistake then show how to correct it. If a seam is off by a lot, sure redo it. A thread or two, no way. As an adult student, i would not tolerate that.
A 1/4 seam can be really important when sewing certain block units together. If your seam is too big then your other pieces won't fit, if it's too long you'll have too much to sew onto the sides and then trim. You cut out all your pieces for a block assuming that your 1/4 seam is correct.
This comes into play especially with triangle points too. You'll whack em right off if you aren't careful about your seam allowance!
If you're just sewing squares or strips of fabric together it might not be as important but I think every quilter should pay attention to it and get into the habit of measuring. Not only does the machine make a difference in your seam allowance but your piecing thread can also change it. Too bulky and thick and it will throw it off. I've started piecing with a 50 wt Aurifil thread to try and keep my seams as accurate as possible and I've noticed a big difference.
I have heard of Aurifil thread recommended a lot-Aurifil is the brand name? ANd also what kind/size needles do you use in your machine? I found some sharps-can't remember the size.Quote:
Originally Posted by KatiesQuiltingCorner
Yep Aurifil is the brand name. I use a 75/11 Schmetz quilting needle when I'm piecing with a 50 wt thread. If your local quilt shop doesn't sell it I can recommend The Quilt Bear - they have good prices online and free shipping, no minimum purchase required.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat n bull
I use the 50 wt. mako spool - color 2021 for piecing (except for black fabrics). It lasts forever on your bobbin too! I actually think I'm saving money on thread not having to buy it as often now.
Thanks! There is no local quilt shop around here, or even a local fabric store. It is very annoying! Closest fabric store is Hancock's, which is not so great AND very expensive and it's 30-40 mins away.Quote:
Originally Posted by KatiesQuiltingCorner
I get everything online!
I agree with everyone above. A 1/4" seamm is crucial when making stars...if your seam is too wide you lose the points of your stars. It will become second nature to you after a bit :) Barb
I have a top with that very problem. I used a 1/4" and not a 1/4" scant. It really made a difference when sashing my stars together. I lost the tips on a few. Doesn't look all that bad but still......I'll know better next time.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubby
Now I have my scant measured on my machine with the Q tool corner cut template and the reusable sewing edge. It has helped tremendously....
I have a Janome QC6360 (or something like that lol). It presets my needleposition to 3.5. The shop I bought it from recommended I set it to 4.0 as it was closer to a scant 1/4" .
I use Shmetz size 80 universal needle. I used to use a 90 but switched to smaller size; not sure why I did, but I did. Not sure if I notice a difference either. I've tried Shmetz sharps but I get along fine with the universals.
At the moment I use a 3 ply, 50wt thread made by Cansew (Canadian company). Less expensive than 2 ply 50 Aurifil, but I agree Aurifil is wonderful to use for piecing. 2 plys makes for less bulk in the seams, and surprisingly because of the long staple Egyptian cotton, it is relatively strong.
I made some neckties tonight for a birthday party, so I checked and my 1/4" universal foot is DEFINITELY more than 1/4"! I am going to use the lines on paper method to see where the 1/4" is.
I have spools and spools and spools of serger thread, not the greatest stuff for quilting!
I still plan to start SIMPLE with many similar sized pieces. And I plan to use starch before I cut. Still can't imagine cutting out EVERY single piece first!
I recommend sewing fabric together to check your seam allowance. Sewing on paper doesn't give you an accurate idea since you have to press your seam and that can change your measurement.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat n bull
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvmX8hBbgug
I hear what you are saying and it does seem to make sense--but I really do try to stick to the 1/4 inch. I have a few feet for my machine that I love and would not sew without them.
Cathryn,Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat n bull
Most standard presser feet that come with sewing machines when you buy them are NOT 1/4" quilting feet. More times than not, this is a foot you have to buy seperately. Sometimes a dealer may include one with the deal, most times, as I said, they don't. You're dealer should have them in stock or you can look around on Ebay or sewing machine parts suppliers for a foot that is "specific" for your machine. "Specifis" is a key word as a lot of feet are not interchangeable between different brands. I have a Janome, and I need to buy Janome feet only; possibly Kenmore may work for me.
Even 1/4" quilting feet can be off! You still have to check them. If I want a scant 1/4 I have to nudge my needle over even using my 1/4" foot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Denis
Quote:
Originally Posted by Denis
I have a pfaff, it did come with a few feet but no designated quilting foot.
There is a definite 1/4" spot on my universal presser foot. I don't think I'd buy a special foot since it's not too hard to line up with that spot. Now that I KNOW where I need to line up to make it 1/4".
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat n bull
I would go for consistency on the seam widths first- accuracy comes with practice. I always cut one block and make it first. Then I measure, and if it's the correct size, I cut the rest ,all at one time. If it doesn't measure out right, I've only wasted fabric for that one block.
It becomes really important to have an accurate 1/4" seam when you begin to swap with other quilters. Then everyone's blocks need to be the same size so they all fit together. Just remember, practice makes perfect. Don't stress, it's your quilt, you can make it any way that you want to! Main thing is- Just enjoy. There are no quilt police.
Whew - my quilting teacher said - if you can, fudge it to make it work. So far I like her philosophy! This is a hobby of mine and I can be a perfectionist (as in my seams must line up good enough for me to proceed and that means they have to be almost perfect). But if I gotta do a little stretching... so be it. That being said, I have ripped out quite a few in my day. Some times stretching it won't let the fabric lay flat enough for fudging.
I am constantly forgetting to nudge my needle over. I should put a sticky note up!!Quote:
Originally Posted by KatiesQuiltingCorner