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Fatt Batt and binding
:icon_hi: I've been away awhile and apologize for not being an active participant.
Working on Yellow Brick Road...the directions mention using 2-1/4" strips for binding. I'm afraid that the 2-1/4" strips may be too narrow for Fatt Batt batting (hoping the batting will work out - never used it before - still waiting for it too arrive - son wanted his quilt to be "fluffy". Anyway....are my fears unfounded. If not, how wide should I cut the strips?
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
I usually use warm and natural or warm and white and I usually make my strips 2 1/2 inches for the binding. You may want to wait until the batting gets there and you have it sandwiched to see if you need to make it larger or not.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
I also usually use warm and natural or warm and white and thinking that a thin loft is what patterns use also. I was just thinking maybe I could get a jump on things and cut the strips ahead of time. Then, when the batting arrives it will be zoom, zoom, zoom :D with sandwiching, quilting, and binding. Waiting probably is a good idea. Thank you for your reply.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Maybe someone on here has used the Fatt Batt batting and will pop in and let you know :) Then you can get a head start.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Thank you Ginny, that is my hope.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Not familiar with Fatt Batt batting, but I always cut my binding 2.5".
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
I would cut some scraps various widths and experiment before cutting the binding strips. I googled "fatt batt" online and it says 1/2" to 5/8" thick. Maybe you can stack up some thinner batting scraps and test out with scraps before cutting your strips. I generally use 2-1/2" myself on either warm & natural or Hobbs 80/20. I think I'd try a few somewhere between 2-1/2" and 3-1/2" and see which gives you the look you want.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
I appreciate everyone mentioning the 2-1/2" binding, I always use that width with regular batting. So, right off the bat, hehe...the binding width would be too narrow.
katier825, I like the idea of testing with scraps. Thank you for that idea.
I like warm and natural. This is the first time using Fatt Batt. The non-allergenic properties will be good. I'm thinking will have to tie the quilt, which will help with the holiday crunch.
Thanks again for the idea to use scraps and practice with some strips.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Tying it would be a good idea with such a thick batting. You may be able to get away with a FMQ meander, but anything where you would have crossing lines I would be wary of puckering. I would cut 3" strips...and think that would work fine. Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
I only use Warm and Natural I have never heard of that batting where do you hear about that batting? just curious.
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I usually either serge the edge of a quilt or zig zag around the edge to get ready for binding. Makes attaching binding easier for me....
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Are you doing straight grain or bias cut binding?
Because straight grain binding won't have as much give to it, I usually go 2.5" just to be safe. Since bias binding has a little more give, I'm usually quite happy with 2.25" even on fluffier battings. I've not use that particular batting so YMMV, I'm just thinking out loud.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Are you planning on machine sewing on the binding back and front or were you planning on hand sewing the binding?
I have gotten to where I like cutting the binding to 3" attach it to the back, bring it around to the front and using my stitch in the ditch foot with the needle slightly to the right, sew the bind down. Having it at three inches makes sure that I don't stitch over too many layers at once - I won't be catching the binding on the back when sewing on the front. It will just look like another line of quilting on the back. I pick a binding that will complement the pieced top.
Also, I did a jean quilt last year and used a decorative stitch to tack in the center of each square. With it being jeans and minkee together it was way to thick to sew over seams. I have washed it since and it has held up so well I can't tell it's been through the washer and dryer.
I have also done like Mary T and serged the edges - it always aggravating to have the fabric shift on you!
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
It is a very high loft poly batting, that I believe JoAnn sells.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
AlohaSandy
I only use Warm and Natural I have never heard of that batting where do you hear about that batting? just curious.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
I use 2 1/4 for W&N. As for the fatter batt - cut a small piece at 3" and see what that would look like. If it's too wide, cut it back to 2 3/4" or 2 1/2". Use what fits best.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
I am binding my Iron Quilter II right now using 2 1/2 inch bias strips now. I just have a regular batting (Mountain Mist or something like that) which I trimmed so that there was about 1/4 inch overhang to allow for a fuller binding. It is looking pretty awesome, and the the 2 1/2 is just about perfect for this normal loft quilt. Of course, it took me three tries to get the joining seam to work. I had about three twists in it the first time, and maybe one twist the second time. Third time was a charm! Even though I was using a walking foot, I still managed to get some puckers on the backing while attaching the bias strip. Oh well, hopefully it won't show so much when I wash it and it "crinkles."
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Oleg
I am binding my Iron Quilter II right now using 2 1/2 inch bias strips now. I just have a regular batting (Mountain Mist or something like that) which I trimmed so that there was about 1/4 inch overhang to allow for a fuller binding. It is looking pretty awesome, and the the 2 1/2 is just about perfect for this normal loft quilt. Of course, it took me three tries to get the joining seam to work. I had about three twists in it the first time, and maybe one twist the second time. Third time was a charm! Even though I was using a walking foot, I still managed to get some puckers on the backing while attaching the bias strip. Oh well, hopefully it won't show so much when I wash it and it "crinkles."
"Crinkles" will cover everything... Love them...
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Lots of great ideas. Thank you all.
I will be using straight grain. Bias binding scares me. With the crunch I will be sticking with what I know.
The Fatt Batt is from Joann's. Matter of fact, it was at my door when I returned home this evening. Unfortunately, there is not much loft to it. I have it spread out..maybe it will magically puff up more and it will be more lofty by tomorrow evening.
I like to machine sew the binding to the front, then turn it to blind stitch by hand the binding to the back side. If my quilting doesn't go all the way to the edge on previous projects, I have machine basted around the edge before attaching the binding.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Flannel
I will be using straight grain. Bias binding scares me. With the crunch I will be sticking with what I know.
I can certainly appreciate staying in familiar territory if time is of the essence but bias binding is nothing to be afraid of for future projects. The hardest part is deciding which of the 10,000 different ways you'll find on youtube and other people blogs to use for cutting and joining it. It seems harder but once you start sewing with it you'll fall in love because the extra give to it makes covering up minor imperfections a lot easier. I did nothing but straight grain binding for a long time but after trying bias a few times I'm sold on it!
Good luck with whatever width binding you decide on! We want pictures of the quilt when you get a chance!
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I've posted this before, but this is the way I make my bias binding. It is so easy if you follow her directions, I think almost as easy as straight cut strips. I got about 24 feet out of my fabric square. Sewing the strips together was pretty forgiving, and actually fun once I got the hang of it.
Quilting Tutorial: Worry-Free Bias Binding - YouTube
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I used to use 2.5" strips for everything, but an award-winning quilter (Padukah) encouraged me to move to 2.25". I was really afraid to try it, but I did and I think it's perfect. There's still plenty of binding to wrap. And my quilter friend says the "tighter" the binding, the more durable it is. I also like the look better.
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Thank you everyone for your input and suggestions. Because the loft wasn't so lofty I was able to use a 2.25" binding and also stitch in the ditch in the main body of the quilt.
There was request for pictures so here are a few.
Attachment 63812Attachment 63813Attachment 63814
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
Wow that came out beautiful Dawn! Your fabrics are gorgeous!
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It 's a safe bet that you will need at least 2.5, which is what I use on my quilts...
If you make the strips ahead of time, make them three inches wide, so you will have some room to play in."you can always cut it down... But you can't add!
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Turned out beautifully. Perfect man quilt.
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That turned out great!! I love the quilting you did, too!
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That turned out beautiful!
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turned out awesome! I have always used 2.25 when I cut my own. If in a pinch and I have a solid jelly roll I will use the 2.5 though. I agree the 2.25 looks better though!!
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What an awesome quilt!
I always use fleece for quilt backs and loftier battings, so my quits are pretty thick, and I cut my binding strips 2.5"
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Re: Fatt Batt and binding
My son really liked the quilt. He takes better pictures than I can. Here it is displayed on his bed.
Attachment 68187