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We have a local auction every weekend.Quote:
Do you go to a physical auction? Or is it something you do online?
Doloris, love your ironing station, I don't know why it never occurred to me to just put a larger top on an existing dresser. DUH on me!!
I have an old drafting board on top of my low chest of drawers for ironing. It has worked well. You may want to put a board on top for a wider/bigger surface and so as not to damage the surface of the chest of drawers.
I just used an old bath towel between the dresser and the ironing top. has never moved unless I want it to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightwriter
I like this thread. Another option to keep it from slipping is that grippy shelf liner stuff, not as permanent as velcro, and won't damage the dresser top. Also, you could do the top cover (the part you want to be replaceable) as a pillow case style, or make it a couple inches bigger than your surface, and add a heavy duty drawstring so it can be cinched down tight and tied on the underside. . . just like a traditional ironing board cover. Lots of great options here.
I would make it at least 24 inches deep. A layer of insulbright, a layer of warm 'n' natural, and a layer of silver ironing board fabric, each stapled to the back. Then put duct tape over the area of the staples. Sounds like the Velcro might be just what you need. It's worth a try. Let us know about the results.
Here is a picture of my ironing surface. My husband cut a laminate board the same size as the dresser top. I covered it with batting and $1.00 per yard fabric. It works great!
Attachment 87985
Edited to say "Karen can you turn the picture?"
Yes, Robin, that's the way I envisioned making my homemade ironing board. It looks great, even though it is currently upside down!
I used the layer of insulbrite and the silver ironing fabric because my first top warped. I only had the W&N and fabric on it, and I think all the steam warped the plywood. This time I used 3/4" plywood and a layer of insulbrite, W&N, and silver stuff. Seems to be working better. Make sure you do not use too thin of a piece of wood to begin with.
It will help to avoid warping to put a layer of tin foil under the batting layer. Overlap the foil if it is not wide enough for your board. It also tends to reflect the heat/steam back up to your fabric that is being ironed.
Ok, another little thought, I seem to remember from a tutorial on the fat quarter shop, that you don't want to use the silver fabric when you iron appliques, because it makes it too hot for the fusible fabrics. So, if you do much of that, you might want to have a small section without silver, for that purpose. The whole top can be covered with pretty fabric, over the top of the silver and lets say, muslin. So you have continuity on the top surface, but options below the covering which are not visible.
